By: Sverre Sjøthun, December 29, 2000 Print this article
As the need for a bigger case grew stronger and stronger, and especially with the upcoming modifications on the cooling equipment in mind, I found out that I had to do something. I started out looking for available cases on the net, but found out that the cases I wanted cost like 800-1200US$. I think that
As the need for a bigger case grew stronger and stronger, and especially with the upcoming modifications on the cooling equipment in mind, I found out that I had to do something. I started out looking for available cases on the net, but found out that the cases I wanted cost like 800-1200US$. I think that's a little bit too much.
After some time thinking and planning, I came up with the idea of making a case myself. I could make it just the way I wanted it to be, and it wouldn't cost a fortune either. Given the fact that I got an A in woodcraft at school, everything was set for making a kick ass case wooden case.
I wanted it to have two compartments; one for the electronics and one for the cooling. This is obviously the ultimate solution since the heat produced by the CPU and TEC's are being removed out of the electronics section, thus it will not heat the other components, and the air that's blowing through the radiator is not already heated by the other components. What I basically did was to rip out the guts of my old Aopen HX-08 and put it inside the wooden one.
Below you find a list of the materials and tools needed for building this case:
- A sharp knife. This is crucial for making smooth cuts, and makes
everything much easier. The one I used here is from my carving kit, but a
carpet knife will do just fine as long as it's sharp.
- Hand-held battery-drill or a Dremel.
- Press-drill for making the reset and power buttons. You can make it
without, but it will not be easy...
- Glue. Just standard type glue for wood.
- Some screws and a screwdriver.
- A few clamps
- One CD. I used Timebeat's "The long year" released in 1990, but I'm sure
any album from Milli Vanilli or even Andrew Lloyd Webber will do.
- 22mm MDF for the base-plate, a sheet of 6mm Mahogany plywood, a sheet of
19mm Mahogany plywood for the section-divider, and a few planks for
stiffening the construction. A good tips here is to have the shop saw it up
- Teak oil (I used Owatrol Teak oil) and 4 boxes of Tamyia high gloss
clear modelpaint for the finish
The back and power/reset buttons
LEDs and power/resetbuttons cont.
Mounting the digital thermometer
Digital thermometer continued
Laminating the top of the case
The final result